Yesterday I had my second Ayurveda massage treatment. They use a lot of oil and compared with massage back home there is more rubbing an less squeezing involved. Also, I had a complementary treatment where they pored oil, some of it burning hot, on my forehead for an hour. It's supposed to enhance memory power. Not sure what to think of all this yet, will probably have a third treatment at some point.
This morning I took a bus down from the mountains to the town of Kottayam, where I enlisted a motor-rikshaw driver to take me to a small place called Ayemenen. This is the birthplace of Arundhati Roy and the setting of her celebrated novel The God of Small Things, which I am struggling to get through. (I find it boring.) We found a house which may have been the one in the book, with a grumpy relative of the author who didn't seem to happy about the book either.
My driver saw the chance of making a bit extra and took me to his home where we paddled around the famous local backwaters for two hours in a ten-meter canoe, after which I had coconut juice, coffee and snacks with his family and was shown a video recording of a cousin's pentacostal wedding (quite interesting).
Tonight I made it back to Fort Cochin, haven't yet decided where to go from here.
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